Photo by P Hsuan Wang on Pexels
Taiwan is the most underrated destination in East Asia — a Chinese-speaking democratic island with extraordinary food, dramatic mountain landscape, a functioning night market culture that puts the rest of the region to shame, and one of the friendliest populations in the world toward foreign visitors. It is also remarkably easy to travel independently.
Getting In
Visa: UK, EU, US, Canadian, Australian, and most other Western nationalities can enter Taiwan visa-free for 90 days. No advance application required — simply arrive with a return ticket.
Flights: No direct flights from the UK to Taiwan; common routings are via Dubai (Emirates), Doha (Qatar), Hong Kong, or other Asian hubs. Taipei’s Taiwan Taoyuan International Airport (TPE) handles most international arrivals. Travel time from the UK with one stop is approximately 14–17 hours.
Getting Around
Taiwan High Speed Rail (HSR): Connects Taipei with Kaohsiung in the south in approximately 1.5 hours (compared to 4.5 hours by regular rail). Runs the entire western spine of the island — essential for covering the main urban destinations quickly.
TRA (Taiwan Railways Administration): The conventional rail network covers routes the HSR doesn’t — the east coast (one of the most scenic rail routes in Asia), the north coast, and the smaller western towns. Comfortable and inexpensive.
MRT (Taipei Metro): Taipei’s metro is clean, efficient, and covers the city comprehensively. The EasyCard (a stored value contactless card) works on the Taipei MRT, city buses, HSR (at a discount), and even at convenience stores — one of the most useful transport cards in Asia.
Buses: The intercity bus network (KBUS and others) covers mountain routes and destinations the train doesn’t reach. Scooter rental is extremely popular for exploring the countryside — widely available from rental shops outside train stations.
Taipei
Taiwan’s capital is a city of contrasts: extremely modern infrastructure alongside traditional temple districts, world-class food markets alongside contemporary design culture.
Essential Taipei:
- Shilin Night Market: The most famous night market in Taiwan — an overwhelming warren of food stalls (oyster omelette, stinky tofu, bubble tea, scallion pancakes, braised pork rice). Go hungry and early before the evening crowds.
- Jiufen: A hillside former gold-mining village 40 minutes from Taipei — a labyrinth of stairs and teahouses believed to have inspired the setting of Spirited Away. Best in the late afternoon and evening when the lanterns are lit.
- Longshan Temple: The most atmospheric temple in Taipei — an active place of worship with incense smoke, fortune-telling, and genuine devotion. The contrast between the ornate religious architecture and the modern city surrounding it is striking.
- Taipei 101: The iconic skyscraper — the observation deck gives the best view of the city and surrounding mountains.
- Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall: The large memorial square in the heart of the city is a significant cultural and political landmark.
- National Palace Museum: One of the world’s greatest collections of Chinese art — the collection of jade, porcelain, calligraphy, and painting was brought from mainland China by the Nationalist government in 1948. Requires at least a half day; the Jadeite Cabbage and Meat-Shaped Stone are the most famous pieces.
The East Coast
The eastern coast of Taiwan — accessible by TRA train from Taipei — is one of the most scenic stretches of railway in Asia. The Hualien–Taroko section passes through the Pacific coast between mountains and ocean before reaching the entrance to Taroko Gorge.
Taroko National Park: A marble gorge cut by the Liwu River into the Central Mountain Range — with temples carved into the cliff face, hiking trails along the gorge rim, and the extraordinary Qingshui Cliffs (marble cliffs dropping 2,000m directly into the Pacific). The Taroko Gorge Trail (Shakadang Trail, Baiyang Trail) are the most accessible hiking routes.
Hualien: The main city of Taiwan’s east coast — base for Taroko and a destination in itself for the night market (cheaper and more local than Taipei’s famous markets) and the Pacific-facing coastline.
Tainan
Taiwan’s oldest city and cultural capital — the most historically significant city on the island. The Dutch Fort Zeelandia (Anping Old Fort), the Chihkan Tower (the seat of Dutch colonial government before Koxinga expelled the Dutch in 1662), the network of traditional temples, and the most distinctive local food in Taiwan (Tainan is considered to have the best street food — taro balls, coffin bread, shrimp rolls) reward 2–3 days.
Food
Taiwan’s food culture is one of the best in Asia:
- Beef noodle soup (niúròu miàn): The national dish — slow-braised beef in a spiced broth. Din Tai Fung (the chain that started in Taipei and now has restaurants worldwide) is the most famous restaurant in Taiwan.
- Xiaolongbao (soup dumplings): Thin-skinned dumplings with a hot broth inside — the defining dish of Din Tai Fung.
- Oyster vermicelli (ô-á-mī-sùa): A thick, gelatinous noodle soup with oysters and intestines in a starchy gravy — a night market staple.
- Bubble tea (珍珠奶茶): Invented in Taiwan in the 1980s — the original and still the best.
- 7-Eleven and FamilyMart: Taiwanese convenience stores are, incredibly, excellent. Tea eggs, pork rice dishes, and mantou (steamed buns) are all good.
Costs
Taiwan is moderately priced — cheaper than Japan and roughly similar to South Korea:
| Item | Approximate cost |
|---|---|
| Hostel dorm (Taipei) | £12–22/night |
| Budget hotel (private room, Taipei) | £40–70/night |
| Night market meal (multiple dishes) | £4–8 |
| Restaurant meal | £6–12 |
| Taipei MRT single fare | £0.60–1.20 |
| HSR Taipei–Kaohsiung | £25–40 |
Daily budget: £35–55 including hostel accommodation, eating well, and public transport.
Conclusion
Taiwan is one of the most rewarding and accessible destinations in East Asia:
- Get an EasyCard immediately — works on MRT, buses, HSR (at discount), and convenience stores
- Taroko Gorge is the single most impressive landscape — take the TRA east coast train from Taipei
- Tainan for culture and food — the oldest city and the best street food
- Night markets over restaurants for the most authentic eating experience
- Jiufen at dusk — the lanterns, the teahouses, and the hillside setting justify the 40-minute journey from Taipei
Keep reading: Backpacking in South Korea: practical guide